How to Grow Weed in a Pringles Can – 2 Part Series – Seed to Harvest
In this series I’m going to show you how I grew weed in a pringles can from start to finish. AND I’m documenting every single thing I do so bear with me through the parts that may seem self explanatory.
Now, what better way to be green than the recycle your munchie pringles containers by growing plants in them.
If that’s not the circle of life, I don’t know what is.
Equipment and Supplies used in this grow:
The first thing you want to setup is your grow space.
The best temperature is about 80 degrees so you probably want to pick a room or closet that’s about room temperature because the light will add an additional 10 degrees.
I ended up using my closet in the basement and I hung the light down in the corner. It’s also ideal that the room has plenty of air so I just leave the closet door open. Next, get some plants off to a healthy start.
I took clones from a strong mother plant by cutting off branches and dipping them in raw honey. Right after I placed them in some soaked rapid rooters then put them in a warm humid room with a grow light.
If your grow light has a dimmer, put it at its lowest setting and place the light about 18 inches away. If it doesn’t have a dimmer, place it about 3 feet away. You want to set you lights on a 18-24 hour light cycle.
To keep the humidity high, you could use some empty bottles.
I feed these plants plain water when I notice the rapid rooters shrink and turn a slightly lighter color than wet rooters. It’ll take about 2 weeks for them to root. Another option is starting them from seeds and this method is similar but instead, take a half a cup of water, add 2 drops of hydrogen peroxide and drop some seeds in.
It’s fine is they float. Cover the top with some foil and check on them everyday until you see a taproot form which is usually around 3 days. Once formed, place them in a soaked rapid rooter with the root point down. Place these rapid rooters in the same type of environment explained before and again, the plant will be ready to transplant in about 2 weeks.
Next, is munchy time. Empty out some Pringles cans.
Once empty, wash them out and try not to get water on the outside of the top of the cans or they might warp like this. I just take some hot water in the can and shake, then rinse. Once they’re clean, drill about 10 toothpick sized holes on the bottom and this will let any excess water drain from these pots when feeding.
Once the holes are set, you need to grab your small plants and fill the Pringles cans with soil. I use is a 2 to 1 mix of froggy soil and ocean forest by fox farm. As a rule of thumb, I like the plants to be buried deep enough so the first node is slightly above the top of the can.
Depending on the plant, Ill start off with different amounts of soil, then place the plant in until it’s at the desired height, then fill the rest up with soil. Notice how I kind of drop the cans of soil so that some soil compacts with gravity.
Once the cans are filled to the top, place them back to your grow spot and feed them once the dirt is dry. You could usually tell when the plants start drooping down or the soil looks less light. Just water them with plain water until you notice water dripping out from the bottom of the cans. Since ocean forest soil has a decent amount of nutrients, you wont need to add any until the 3rd feed in which we will talk about in part 2.
Part two is all about recognizing when there is no more water left for the plants to drink and adding the appropriate feeds. The best schedule for fox farm’s trio is the one I mathematically optimized and you could download it here. The rest of the grow is just me following the chart.