Autoflowering cannabis plants have a shorter lifespan than traditional cannabis plants, which means they need specific care to maximize their yield potential. To grow larger buds and maximize yield with autoflowers, it’s crucial to choose the right genetics, use balanced nutrients and perfect the grow environment. However, one of the most important triggers for flowering is something you might not expect. The key to success when growing autoflowers is to understand what influences flowering and to provide them with the right conditions and care to prolong growth for the best potential yield.

Let’s be honest, to spend around 3 months for a really small yield isn’t worth it. A lot of new growers start with autoflowers because they were told it was easier, but the problem is, once they start flowering, that is the beginning of the end of growth. But how do you postpone flowering???

Now, Just because the word auto is in the name doesn’t mean flowering is completely automatic. It should really be called non-photoperiods because it doesn’t depend on light, but it does depend on a bunch of other factors. 

After testing out several theories and conducting experiments for the sole purpose of figuring out why autoflowers flower, I narrowed it down to a single main factor and that is….. drumroll…… resistance at the root level.

Now this could be broken down into two main factors and first is pot size. Heres an experiment where I planted the same strain in a small pot and a bigger pot using the same soil. I placed the small pot in the big pot, just so you could see a side by side better and the plant in the small pot started throwing out preflower pistils a full 7 days earlier than the plant in the bigger pot. Again, as the plants grow, the roots fill the pot and once there’s enough resistance, flowering begins.

The second factor is the medium you grow in. Take this hydro vs soil comparison. When growing 3 sets of strains, one of each in soil and hydro, across the board, the soil plants were much smaller and flowering began an average of 13 days earlier than the hydro sisters. This is because there is almost no resistance for the roots in hydro.

Now this doesn’t mean that you could prolong flowering forever, because eventually the auto will flower regardless of unlimited resources. I grew this single autoflower in hydro in a 5 x 5 tent and the total yield was over 6 ounces.

If you want high yields with autoflowers, use a large capacity pot and choose a medium that is easy for roots to penetrate through. Hydro is the best in my opinion, then coco coir and honestly, I really don’t recommend soil. If soil’s your only option, cut it with something light and fluffy like coco coir and perlite. Always plant your seeds directly in your final pot because stress during transplant can trigger flowering.

For a Masterclass on how to grow the biggest autoflowers, check THIS VIDEO OUT.


  1. I agree 100%! I have had similar results lately with my last two grows. The best results were using 1.7 gallon self-watering pots filled with coco. My most stunted, early flowering plant was in 3-gallon soil that definitely needed way more aeration (i.e. perlite). Thanks for tying it all together for me.

  2. Hi! Thank you for all the info! I’m interested in trying to grow autos with coco coir. Would the nutrient guide still apply for autos with coco or is this only accurate for soil?

    1. No there is a coco chart It requires more cal, mag and K

      1. Gotcha. In that case I will just use soil and perlite. I was thinking of mixing some perlite evenly through the soil. Do you have a recommendation on soil to perlite ratio when cutting the soil with perlite?

        1. I would add like 1 quart to each 3 gallons of soil.

          Also, keep track of all the feeds and consider drip irrigation.

          1. Will do. My first time growing so really appreciate all the info! I’ll be sure to keep you update on the discord

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