HOW TO GROW WEED 2023 UPDATE – Seed to Harvest – Complete Beginner’s Guide for New Growers
PRESS PLAY ON THE VIDEO ^ABOVE^, This article is basically subtitles:
seedtoharvest #cannabisgrowguide #howtogrowweed
This is the easiest most detailed tutorial on how to grow weed and cannabis for new growers. Growing marijuana may seem difficult is you just started but this tutorial will break it down from start to finish as easy as possible. It was recorded in a way to make it simple but leaves no beginner question unanswered. Hundreds of new growers have shared their successful harvests from using this guide.
Please follow all local laws and this is intended to help people grow medicinal marijuana legally or learn about to cannabis plant’s growth.
0:18 Intro and Proof of Concept, What to Expect
0:49 Essential Equipment
1:04 Lighting Requirements
1:38 Soil & Nutrients
3:06 Airflow,Temperature & Humidity
3:24 Non-Essential Equipment
3:30 Grow Tent
4:05 Inline Fan
4:18 Carbon Filter
4:30 How to Setup – Tutorials on Complete Setups
4:46 Choosing which Seeds or Clones to get
4:59 Regular Seeds
5:32 Feminized Seeds
6:18 How to Germinate Seeds
7:47 Using the Feed Chart/Schedule
8:37 Setting up your Light Intensity and Day & Night Cycle
9:40 How to Prepare Feed Water and Mix Nutrients
10:16 When & How Much to Feed
10:38 Best Watering Techniques
12:07 Flushing Out Nutrients
12:41 Topping a Plant to Increase Yields
12:51 Variances with Grows
13:02 Bloom Preparation, Defoliation & Flipping
13:32 Best time to Clone – Tutorial on Easiest way to Clone
13:37 Identifying Males & Females – Tutorial on How to Sex
14:10 When to Harvest – Tutorial on Best Way to Tell
A cheat sheet is included and data was mathematically calculated and verified in my live grow journal as well as verified by hundreds of users on my discord.
CLICK here to Download or click photo:
It will tell you what to do for each week of the plants life and all of it is based on multiple harvests and actual experience.
The time frame from seed to harvest is 3-5 months and there are essential supplies and equipment to have decent yields. The bare minimum is a grow light in a closet, preferably with white walls. Marijuana plants need plenty of light and without it, you will NOT produce any buds that are worth growing. LED’s are the best lights at the moment and the rule of thumb I use, 30 Watts for each square foot of grow space. A light is a plants MVP so if you’re going to spend your money on anything, spend it on a light. A decent light for 3 plants will cost around $150. You’ll also need a timed outlet or surge to control the day and night cycle.
Our Picks: (clip coupon if available):
All of the recommendations are based on actual use:
Bloom Plus: https://amzn.to/3vNlpST
Verified Grow: https://discord.gg/ZTsYeekHbb
Spider Farmer: https://amzn.to/3PaNCKi
Verified Grow: https://discord.gg/nwDXKeBV4g
Mars Hydro FC6500: https://amzn.to/3U1asq1
Unboxing of FC-6500: LINK – currently using, working great so far, journal to follow.
Next, you’ll need soil and pots. The soil I use is froggy soil which barely has any nutrients but another great option for Autoflowers is ProMix HP
Each plant you grow will need it’s own pot and there is a direct correlation between the size of the pot and how big a plant can grow. We recommend 5 gallon pots for regular plants and autoflowers. More information on that below.
live by the cheat sheet die by the cheat sheet
Throughout your plant’s life, you’ll have to add nutrients that are essential for growth. Plants absorb different nutrients at different pH’s and the majority of problems with growing weed stems from nutrients. If a plant can’t absorb nutrients, it can’t eat. So, you’ll have to manually set your waters pH. To do this, you’ll need both pH Up or Down and a pH meter and slowly add pH down until your meter reads the pH you want.
Always pH balance your water AFTER all nutrients and supplements are added. The easiest starter set of nutrients is General Hydroponics Flora Trio is what we base our charts in this video on. You’ll also need cal mag which will helps build healthy cell walls and improves photosynthesis.
Also required is a small fan to supply fresh air, strengthen your stems, prevent pockets of humidity and assist in warding off pests.
Last, you will need a thermometer hygrometer combo which youll use to measure the temperature and humidity.
The rest of the items are optional and you could skip this next part to 4:07
These maximize light efficiency by reflecting light to be absorbed by your plant. Instead of controlling the humidity or temperature of a whole room or closet you limit the size of your enclosure. Smaller the space smaller the utility cost. I’d say each plant you grow will need about 2 and a quarter feet of space so choose the size of your tent accordingly. You want to size your tent and grow light together. The rest of the recommended equipment will be used with a grow tent.
Inline fan – Plants breath carbon dioxide like we breath oxygen and they will need a constant supply of fresh air. An inline fan will provide airflow and ventilation to your tent.
Carbon Filter – These are used alongside an inline fan and they both filter out the smell of weed and other airborne microbes that may be harmful to your plants. This will also require a duct to vent outside the tent.
Once you have your equipment, find a place that is about 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. The light will usually bring the temperature of your space up 10 degrees leaving you with the ideal temperature of 70-80 degrees. Next, you’ll need seeds or clones. There are hundreds of strains to choose from and let me break down the 3 types of seeds that exist which will save you time and guesswork. VIDEO ON HOW TO CHOOSE A STRAIN
Regular seeds – These have 50/50 odds of being male or female. You do NOT want male plants unless you plan on breeding. Instead of producing buds, male plants produce pollen. Female plants are pollenates, it will make them produce seeds instead of buds. Regular seeds are also known as photoperiods. Which means you could control these plants by dropping the light cycle down to less than 12 hours a day.
Feminized seeds – These are seeds that are exactly like regular seeds except they will always be female. These are great because you wont have worry about growing any males.
Autoflowers –These plants will need a constant 18 hours of light each day throughout their whole lives. After about 5 weeks, they will automatically start producing buds. The problem with autoflowers is that once they start flowering, it’s the beginning of the end of the plants growth. At times, you could end up with really small plant. You also cant clone autoflowers, so for beginners, I would highly recommend feminized photoperiods. Also, cloning them is basically useless.
There are multiple ways to germinate the seeds, but for the purpose of making it easy, simply find a warm spot to place a mug. Fill the mug halfway with room temperature water and add pH down until it reads 5.8. Then add a couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide so that any germs that develop are killed and the water is oxygenated. Now add your seed(s) to the water and they’ll probably float. Leave them floating on the top and cover the mug with some aluminum foil. Now place the mug in the warm room (around 85 degrees) and check on it every day.
During this time, its a good idea to prepare feeding water. To do so, just take a large bucket or tub and fill it up with tap water. The more surface area exposed to air, the better. Then add 2-3 drops of hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water and let this sit for at least 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate.
As soon as you see a small tap root comes out of the seed(usually 1 day), you want to transfer it to pot of moist NOT wet soil. HOW TO MAKE MOIST SOIL. Poke a hole into the soil and place the seed in with the root pointing down. Once the seed is in, you could lightly cover the top with loose soil. You’ll need high humidity for these young plants, and a easy way to do that is to cover the top with a clear plastic bottle with some holes on it. Place a light about two feet above the plants on its lowest setting with the timer on 18 hours per day.
Keep the cheat sheet close by.
Now the rest of growing will be based on this handy cheat sheet I designed to guide you. There is two tabs, one for regular and one for autoflowers, so make sure you’re on the right one. Once you understand this chart, you wont need to watch anymore tutorials. The first column on this chart tells you what week and as you go across you’ll see other variables that you’ll need to set.
Humidity starts off extremely high during the first two weeks and drops down gradually throughout the plants life cycle. You could set the humidity using a humidifier, dehumidifier, humidity domes or placing a large bucket of water in your grow space.
The next column is light intensity and to set it, you will need a light meter. I use an app called photone which you can download on most smartphones. You’ll have to unlock the Full spectrum LED light option for $6 bucks. Based on the chart, match the values listed with the measurements on the top of your plants. If your light has a dimmer, you could do this by dialing it to the target or by raising or lowering the light. You’ll notice the readings are way higher at the center of the lights so you’re really trying to get the average of the readings to match the target listed on the chart.
Column E is self explanatory. This is the number of hours your light will be on per day and it will be controlled using either the built in timer on your light, or a timed outlet or surge. Try to synchronize the daylight hours with the natural sunlight to avoid any accidental light leaks. Make sure that its complete darkness for your plants during nighttime, during bloom.
Column F through I are all the amounts of nutrients to add to your prepared water. Again, feeding water is treated by taking tap water, adding a couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide per gallon, then leaving it exposed for at least 24 hours to let chlorine evaporate. This means that water is prepared at least a day in advance before adding the nutrients listed in the chart.
Make sure you shake your nutrients before adding it to your water and mix and measure the amounts thoroughly before adding different nutrients.
Making sense of the chart is very important.
Now understanding when and how much to feed is extremely important. It’s a good habit to keep a journal to keep track of when you feed so you can learn the pattern of time between feedings. You could often tell when your plant is hungry when it droops down. Instead of hailing the light, leaves seem limp or catatonic.
Younger plants require less water and a one of the most common problems, is overwatering. During the first 4 weeks, only water when the soil feels dry. You can use your finger to poke a hole about an inch away from the main stem and about two inches down and if you finger tip barely has any soil stick to it, it’s time to water. For a 5 gallon pot, the average weight should be 15.5 pounds after watering, so if you’re not sure, I would just add enough water to bring it up to this weight Never water directly over the main stem. I like to make a circle of water at least an inch away. As the plant’s root system matures, it’s harder to overwater. At around week 5, you can begin to feed heavier. Try to water as slow as possible and distribute the water evenly on top. It’s always best to do this slow and I usually pour half of what I think the plant will need. Then feed the other plants and return back to the same plant and feed it SLOWLY until I see the first sign of runoff. Runoff is excess water that pours out from the bottom of the pot, not from the sides.
WARNING: NEVER LEAVE YOUR PLANT IN A PUDDLE
Also very important is that, starting at week 5, flush every 3rd feeding. The reason why we do this is because excess salts build up that the plant cant consume and the idea is to rinse these out. You want to give the pot a heavy feed of plain pH balanced water with no nutrients, until about a pint of water drips out. Make sure you angle drain if possible because water tends to pool on the bottom of the fabric pots.
As soon as your plants hit their 5th node, it is a perfect time to top which is a method of cutting the top of your plant to potentially double growth.
The duration of veg and flowering will vary. With every grow and you will see both week 6 and 10 can be extended based on preference. For regular strains, you have the ability to choose when to flip your plants from the vegetative phase to the flowering phase. To flip simply by drop the hours of light down to 12 hours. If you want to continue to let your plants grow repeat week 6 until the plants are the size you like and flip. You want to defoliate. Or pull off as many of the large fan leaves on the bottom half of your plant just before flipping. This is also the best time to take clones from regular plants.
Once your plants are flipped, you will see your plants start to develop either balls or white hairs after about a week. If you see balls, this means you plant is a male. Unless you are breeding, take them out and destroy it. Continue following the chart until you are ready to harvest. Plants are ready to harvest once the trichomes look milky or amber and the perfect time is up to you. It could take longer than 10 weeks and if so, repeat week 10 until they’re ready.
The chart for auto-flowers is mostly the same. But the key difference is the lighting schedule of 18 hours for the whole plants life.
As long as you follow the charts, you should get to harvest with nice healthy buds. Again make sure you are flushing every third feeding and if you see anything off, feel free to leave a comment below.
For harvesting, drying, trimming and curing, check out other tutorials on this site and for more tips and tricks on how to grow weed, check out our other videos.
I’m inquiring about flushing my autoflowers.Do I feed them nutrients on the 3rd feeding and flush or flush at the 3rd feeding only?
Just flush, no nutrients at all. It is imperative because salts will build up and cause lockout. This gives them a break and also helps break down any salts that may have built up.
Join the discord for an updated feed chart 😉
I’ve decided to go the hydroponic/Ebb/Flow method. Can I use the same nutrient chart for autoflowers?
No you can’t, big bloom is not water soluble and will clog pumps. Not sure if that applies to ebb and flow. I would use the general hydroponics trio instead but with different amounts. Working on a hydroponics guide but you could message me on discord if you want a detailed explanation in what I’m doing now.
Thank you very much for reaching out. I ordered the general hydroponic trio. I’m wondering if I can still use your chart, with the same ml/feeding schedule?
No. Hydroponics is playing chemist. Hit me up on discord (scroll down). I’ll walk you through the whole process. I’ll warn you that a lot of what sites are recommending is wrong.
I downloaded the (Discordapp) it’s asking me for your username and tag#. I’m using the aircube ebb/flow system with the clay pebbles as my medium. I have the latest Mars Hydro Tsw 2000 grow tent with the 300 w full spectrum led.
ShaneF#3971 is my Discord contact. Thank you for helping brother. There aren’t many good people left. Let’s stand together.
how much water do you use when putting in the nutrients? 1 gallon? im new to growing and have some questions, if you can add me my discord is soap#9341
Depends, all those measurements are per gallon but the amount of water you feed depends on size of pot and plant. Good rule of thumb is to use a fifth of the volume of the soil you have and wait for it to dry up to refeed
Really appreciate the cheat sheet (made a HUGE difference; literally doubled my last yield) but I think I’m getting Week 7’s instructions wrong. Am I supposed to use only regular water (no nutes) for the entire week, give the plants regular water every other day, or something else? Thanks!
Your basically just feeding it a heavy plain watering. Watch this video, it shows the best way of feeding and dunking. https://www.howweedgrow.com/overwatering-underwatering-fabric-pots/. The intention is to flood it and strip all the nutes remaining in the soil and restart with a slightly higher P and K
Your chart says to NOT used nutrients until week 3 for autos in promix. Is this a typographical error?
No it is not an error. The seeds have everything the plant needs in terms of nutrition for the first two weeks
Used your chart for my first grow. Monster plants with monster yields with no health issues. Thanks man. Really appreciate all you do. But I logged in a few days ago because I’m starting my 2nd grow and I can’t find the fox farm trio chart. Did it get moved?
Hey Brian, Man, you need to share the results!!!
Anyhow, I started advising the use of General Hydroponics over FF trio simply because of the results, so I removed it, but here’s the old file back, https://www.howweedgrow.com/fftriochart.pdf
Sweeet. Thanks man!
Yeah my first grow blew me away. Bought a few packs of seeds and went for it with your FF chart. It’s drying now. Then last week my local growmie gave me some clones so I’m going to finish the FF I have left on those for my 2nd grow. But now I’m interested in your GH chart. looking forward to experimenting with it next round.
I’m having a blast. Thanks again for all your content. If I can figure out discord, I’ll share some photos.
If you transfer a clone (week 3ish) into your final pot (3-5 gallons), do you still water until runoff at the bottom or should you use less water?
I would premoisten the new soil with a fifth of water to volume of soil. The watering is still first sight of runoff but check the video on testing runoff, the issue with fabric pots is sometimes the bottom fabric clogs and traps water so you also want to angle drain to remove water that may drown your roots. That’s the safest method.
How can I get everything that I just read cause I’m needing help with my grow?
What do you mean? The chart is linked in the description, clicking the picture of the chart will let you download it
I’d like to grow again. I did grow with greae success before moving.
I live in a perfect place for outside growing but don’t have seeds, can you point me to a company that can supply me with blue dream seeds,
I have all the equipment to grow inside as well, 2 seperate rooms, lights etc.
Any help finfing seeds, starts etc would be very helpful.
Blue dream is one of the best. GROW DIARIES is a great site to see what amateur growers have done with actual strains and I narrowed it down to 2 journals and you could see which breeders the seeds came from there:
You could see other journals, but I would highly recommend photoperiods: